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 Knife Sharpener Abrader with Two Grinding Wheels Green $2.99 |
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 3 M Company 01991 3 Inch Green Corps Weld Slag Grinding Wheel $49.78 |
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Grinding Wheels Green
Dressing Grinding Wheels with a Diamond Dresser Jig
Find out more about Grinding Wheels Green below
Easy Soil Preparation by Tim Johnson
Sawdust
Compost sawdust before adding it to the garden. Because it is a highcarbon/low-nitrogen material, raw sawdust can cause a nitrogen deficiency in the soil as it decays. If you must use it fresh, be sure to add a rich nitrogen source like blood meal, cottonseed meal, or manure.
Put Sow bugs to Work
Sow bugs much prefer decaying matter to growing plants, so put them to work in your compost pile. Gather up all of the sow bugs you can find and introduce them to the pile. Punch a deep hole and drop them in. Then cap the hole with soil. The sow bugs will start to eat their way out, aerating the pile with their tunnels. To encourage the sow bugs to reproduce, lay wooden boards on the damp surface of the compost pile, and they'll breed underneath.
Quick Composting
If you have animals or have access to manure, you can start a compost pile in little time. Put a wheel barrow full of manure mixed with sawdust in the middle of the compost pile. Within 24 hours the pile should be heating. (The composting process is activated by the nitrogen content of the manure.) Instead of rotating the entire pile every few days, which is a lot of work, replace a small portion each day, putting the top of the pile off to one side and moving some of the pile from the opposite side to the top. Rotate a different part of the pile like this every day or so. The heating will continue, and after three weeks, the compost should be ready to go. To keep the water content high, prevent leaching, and maintain the high temperature, cover the pile with a plastic sheet.
Lazy Composting
Making compost is not difficult. The basic method calls for layering natural ingredients in heaps in mixed proportions, providing necessary air and moisture, and turning the heaps to provide bacterial action in all parts of the pile. Just about any organic material can be used. Some of the most common are:
- Leaves: Rich in minerals, they should be chopped or finely shredded for best results. Mix with weeds, lawn clippings, or plant residues.
- Hay: Green legume hay will break down quickly in a compost heap, though any hay or straw makes a worthwhile addition to the heap. Shredding hastens decomposition.
- Garden residue: Dried or green tomato or squash vines, cornstalks, flower stems, and weeds can be shredded or added whole to the heap.
- Grass: Grass clippings can be used dry or green.
- Kitchen garbage: High in nitrogen, kitchen vegetable trimmings can be used for green matter in the heap.
- Paper: Unprinted paper and cardboard are suitable for composting if shredded.
Sawdust, wood chips, nutshells, peanut hulls, coffee wastes, and dried blood are all good compostable materials, not to mention animal manures. In short, any decomposable organic material can be used for composting, except human feces, diseased animals, plant debris impregnated with pesticides or herbicides, and other toxic materials.
There are several methods of composting that can be used on the small farm or in the home garden. The Indoor method, devised by Sir Albert Howard, was the first scientific method of composting. Using this method, compost can be made either in open piles or in bins. The average pile is 6 feet wide, 3 to 5 feet high, and 10 to 30 feet long. First, spread a 6-inch layer of plant wastes over the area to be covered by the pile. then add a 2-inch layer of manure and bedding. Follow with a half inch-thick layer of topsoil. Finally, spread a sprinkling of lime, phosphate rock, granite dust, or wood ashes to increase the mineral content of the heap. (Lime should not be added if you want an acid compost.) Water the pile and continue layering in the same manner until the desired height is reached. Do not trample on the heap; if it is matted down, aeration will be impeded, and a compost heap needs plenty of oxygen to aid decomposition.
Within a few days the heap will begin to heat up and start to shrink. Turn the pile with a pitchfork two or three weeks after it is made and again at the five-week mark. Take care to place the outer parts on the inside so that they can decay fully. The heap will probably heat up to almost 150°F at the outset. After the first turn, the temperature will rise again but will then settle to a steady 130°F. The compost will be finished in about three months.
Another composting technique is called the 14-day method. If you choose this method, you must first grind or shred all materials going into the compost pile. The reasons for this are several. First, the surface area of material on which microorganisms can multiply is greatly increased. Second, aeration of the mass is improved because shredded material has less tendency to mat or pack down. Third, moisture control is improved. Finally, turning of the heap is much easier.
Material is not layered in the 14-day method. It is mixed either before or after shredding, then piled in heaps no more than 5 feet high. After 3 days, the heap is turned. Turning is continued at 2- or 3-day intervals. After 12 to 14 days, the heat of the pile will have dropped, and the compost will be sufficiently decayed to use.
About the Author
Tim is a web developer, artist, musician and loves to learn and try new things. He loves spending time with his wife and family.
Felco Garden Tools
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